How many coats of klasse sealant glaze
My logic was that it was going on soooo thin i used the second layer to insure even coverage. I would sometimes layer on some nice carnauba for a little more "glow" but only after waiting for full curing. My toppings with nuba were reserved for the semi annual pre-love bug infestation in FL. Last edited by Paul A.
Reason: Typo correction. Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 Last Jump to page:. Similar Threads Would 2 coats of Klasse sealant topped with Collinite stop bird bombs from penetrating the clear coat? By DavidAl in forum Auto Detailing Replies: 1 Last Post: , AM. Time between coats of Klasse? By Snowdrifter in forum Auto Detailing Not painted?
Thanks Daniel. I tried it on the painted plastic and it worked great. It looks exactly the same as the photos of the KSG on the applicator pad you posted, its made in Germany and is an acrylic based sealant. Hey Ivan, Been using both Klasse products for many years and love them. I now have trouble with tendinitis in my elbows, so hand application and removal is difficult for me.
The Sealant Glaze however I never got into machine application. You obviously have a problem with the elbows so I would say simply try it on a trunk lid or similar and see how it goes. Do you wait a certain time after applying the Klasse AIO before applying the sealant glaze to allow for bonding or do you go straight to the sealant glaze after an application of Klasse AIO?
Hello Ivan, wow what a great instruction article. I have been using KSG for several years now and have never really enjoyed removing it until I tried your method the other day. So so easy that I am looking forward to applying several coats as soon as the Final Inspect QD arrives later this week.
Your instructions should come standard with every bottle of Klasse. Thanks a ton, Pete. I have read the KSG needs to cure hours between coats, or before applying the carunba wax. What is your method for second and third coating of the KSG. Vince, I typically just wait a week or two until my car is again due for a wash before applying either a 2nd coat of KSG or a coat of wax over it.
I have also many times done the 2nd coat or wax a day after applying the first, but without driving the car and opening the garage much so no dust gets in.
In short, I really never had an issue with application between coats, whether it was hrs later or a few weeks. Hi Ivan, Is there a cure time where the car isnt allowed to get any moisture? KSG I have no garage and will be applying in the driveway I worry about morning due affecting the bonding. Well I was hoping to do successive coats as I do not have garage space available to protect the car for any length of time. Will successive coats work without a prolonged wait, say a wait of 1 hour?
Thanks for your reply! Hope that helps. Removal with CG V7 dampened microfiber was easy. Ivan, thanks for your thorough explanation of the process you use. The dealer waxed the car before delivering it to me. Do I need to remove that wax before applying the Klasse products, and if so, what is the best way to do that in your experience? I appreciate your advice on this matter. Thanks for your reply. I'm new to claying.
Is there a way to tell if paint needs to be clayed? The paint feels smooth as glass now. I would definitely not clay it if it feels smooth everywhere and is brand new. Also, claying might leave some light marring that would require polishing after, so unless it needs it, I would stay away from the clay bar.
Thank You! Followed the Guide and my new Truck looks incredible. I know your instructions saved me lots of time and energy. Im considering using a DA at a low speed for the application and wet microfiber steps and by hand for the dry. I will try out your technique on my next application of KSG. Thanks for the tips! One quick question: can I layer on a coat of kit wax after 3 coats of SG? Glad it worked well for you Matt.
Unfortunately I decided to apply the second coat of KSG on a foggy day. Bad decision. Only let it dry for 15 minutes or so before buffing. It looked pretty good after the buffing, but after a day of dry weather and sun, I now see a thin film all over the car in the exact pattern that I applied it. Should I just wash again and re-buff? Let us know how it goes.
Strangely enough, a quick wash was enough to remove the streaking I caused with coat 2 of KSG. Very happy with the results. Thanks again!
I park on a busy street and have to spray off at least once a week because of sediment build up. I waited a day between coats. After all this work, just last night, I purchased a DA polisher and some pads. If I look really closely in certain lighting conditions, I can see minor swirl marks in the paint even though otherwise the paint looks and feels really silky smooth and has nice glossy finish.
My question is, can I just polish off the 3 coats SG and continue to polish out the swirl marks and start over with a base of AIO and then coats of SG? I am concerned, maybe unjustifiably so, that the SG will prevent me from actually getting down to the swirl marks in the paint, possibly clogging my foam pads.
It might take longer to do the same amount of correction. Hope that helps! Thank you Ivan. It does help — a lot. I think I may have a solution. Other than fairly regular washing and waxing — probably with Turtle Wax and a dish cloth — its finish remains untouched but in need of swirl and fine to moderate scratch removal. The paint or clearcoat is somewhat faded, and obviously swirl free, so it would probably make a good starter project.
I purchased a new vehicle recently. I have some Klasse SG that I want to use on it. I understand that it will be best to make sure there is no wax on it. Will using dishwashing liquid strip off what ever is on the paint now? Ronald, I like to use soaps made for cars, so I would say giving it a good wash with an aggressive soap meant for stripping wax would be good. This would ensure the paint is pretty clean of any oils, etc. Thanks so much for your article. Worked like a charm! Since the car is not garaged, can I expect the KSG finish to last until fall?
Thanks again. Glad it helped Jenny! Hi Ivan—like your articles. But i would like to add that third layer of KSG. Can i apply that third layer so many weeks later, or do I really need to go down to bare paint and start over? Hi David. Have 2 coats of KSG currently and am going for a third. My question is this- is it necessary to topcoat with a good quality wax over KSG, or is periodic re application of KSG going to provide adequate paint protection without the addition of the wax topcoat.
The vehicle is garaged and in Florida. Aside from personal preference, there really is no reason to apply any wax over KSG as KSG looks great and works great on its own. Great info, Ivan, thanks. Regarding your suggestion of an annual decontamination of the painted surfaces, are you suggesting the use of a clay bar, or some other procedure or product?
I really want to do the best by this finish as I plan to keep this ride for some time and am aware that black is a challenge to maintain.
Maybe you need some IronX, but can still avoid clay bar. On the other hand, you might simply need to use clay bar or the autoscrub pads, then maybe do some light polishing before re-applying KSG for protection.
Hope that explains it better. I would simply try to use a very fine polishing pad, such as a Lake Country crimson or black and just use KAIO with that on the Flex at speed 3. Looks good. That should be fine Ross. I just applied the Klasse Twins with five coats of the Sealant. My questions are: 1. If I apply a carnauba wax over the top of the Klasse twins, in six months when I need to reapply the Klasse, will I have to start all over again with the Klasse AIO because carnauba wax was applied over the top of it?
Right now I have a haze swirly look to my Klasse. Is this something that will just wash off in the first washing? You can go either way. I would probably just say do a coat or two every months or as you see fit.
I think the hazy swirls are just sealant residue. They look just like buffer trails in the sunlight. When I came home tonight I put some water on a towel and wiped over them on the whole hood. They were still there. I then dried it with a microfiber towel and the hazy swirls were gone. I first clayed my car and followed your process.
Glad it worked well for you Rolando. The Klasse sealant should last at least a few months, but due to many variables it can be months or it can be I have a brand new non-metallic X3 SAV for a week now. Should I clay it first or just apply sealant and then wait to cure and then wax. Or just sealant would be ok? What sealant do you think is the best? Thank you…please advise me what to do. Hey Ivan, thanks a lot for posting this.
It was very helpful! I just did the whole process today on my car and it looks great. Just have a question. I sprayed the pad with some quick detailer first just sprays , while using both Klasse products.
Also, I used it in the last step, to buff the sealant. Thanks in advance! What would you recommend I do to remove the rail dust? The rust colored specs mean that one has iron contamination; so a full decontamination is needed.
Simply use a brand name wax stripping car soap wax; followed up by some spray on iron-x decontamination fluid in areas with the rust colored specks.
Then follow that up with some extensive and comprehensive thorough clay barring resurfacing of the entire vehicle surface to pull out any existing potential sub surface contamination. Use the Klasse AIO and then the Klasse SG as outlined procedural technique application and removal; apply desired carnuba wax if so desired.
Hi Ivan, I read most of the above and did not see any info concerning the use of Klasse sealant on wheels. I just purchased a set of rims with snow tires and want to protect them against brake dust and salt. How does the Klasse work for new wheels? Would several coats be better? Are there other products available that have better longevity? Thanks for your time and Happy New Year, Bob. Any thoughts on this or mad I short changing myself? Thanks for this wonderful thread.
Got me to thinking…. I would say just the sealant or possibly the AIO and then the sealant. Adolfo: Glad to hear the car turned out great! I would advise staying away from using any quick detailer with a carnauba wax or cleaner wax in it because it just may alter the durability and performance of KSG.
Bob: KSG works great on wheels and I would say coats should work very well. I like a quick detailer simply for the added slickness not slickness left on the paint, but slickness during removal of KSG residue , but if water works well for you then great. Roper: I think both of those are great sealants and do the job well.
Hi Ivan! I used this article when I first applied KSG to my car last year, and it was truly helpful! I was also thinking of diluting KSG with M34 and using that instead? Glad it helped you out last year! This time around, I would recommend something with no wax or cleaners because it may interfere with the KSG. I would probably recommend simply using it as is to apply a couple layers, then after a few weeks you can top with whatever wax you wish.
Thanks Ivan! Just read some articles on the dilution recently. Took your advice and used the AIO on three cars today. That is one great product! After using a clay bar, I was still able to pull more dirt from the paint with the AIO! One panel at a time with this procedure, and included the windows and headlights.
Hardly hazed but I still followed almost immediately with a clean microfiber like recommended and it was instantly smooth and shiny.
The protection is not as good as the High Gloss Sealant Glaze which this article is about , but it is a great product on its own. In any case, I would say you did a fine job either way and you may simply want to add a coat of KSG on top of what you already did for additional protection. I did read somewhere that application with a misted pad will help with the distribution of the AIO, pretty much the same as the procedure with KSG.
Hi Ivan. No traditional car wax or paint sealant cleans, polishes and protects like Klasse. Klasse is not a carnauba wax or a polymer protectant. Klasse is anti-static, non-abrasive and contains no ingredients harmful to paint, metal, plastic or glass. Klasse matches the richness, depth and "wet-look shine" of high quality carnauba waxes, but does so much more.
It creates an elastic, non-chip, shrink-proof, heat and scratch resistant seal against ultraviolet rays, salt water, acid rain and industrial pollutants that lasts for months. Klasse car wax is a two-part system. All-In-One easily wipes away existing wax, road films, light oxidation and visually reduces minor swirls. The polish in All-In-One creates a smooth surface that noticeably improves surface gloss, yet it does not remove paint or clear coat finish.
Last edited by mike; at PM.. Appreciate 0. I've been using it for awhile now too and up until recently just applying it in a normal way. Last detail I did I read about the "mist and wipe" method. What I did was apply it to the whole car, then wait 30 min to an hour and wipe it off with a microfiber that has been dampened with QD.
Follow that up with a dry microfiber to buff the rest off and dry the panel. When you read about letting it set or cure for 24 hours, that doesn't mean leave it hazy on the car for that long, it means apply it and wipe it off, then once it's all off leave it for about 24 hrs before doing another coat. I put it in a small travel size spray bottle and lightly spritz a panel at a time. Thin thin thin thin thin coat. You were both right. I used a tiny tiny tiny amount and it was much easier to get off.
For an area about the size of the trunk lid I used about half a dime sized amount and it was more than enough. I let it sit for an hour then used a damp towel with mist-n-wipe to get it off then buffed with a dry towel. It was much easier to apply and get off still a PIA Here are the results! I think it turned out pretty good. Pictures are crappy as Facebook resizes and compresses.
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